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Bicycle, Bakeries, & Boats in Pacific Northwest

13 September 2015

Trip Report: 13–20 September 2015

Time travels slower on San Juan islands.

This trip was all about travel on Bike Friday, between bakeries of the Pacific Northwest, sailing on Washington State Ferries from one island to another.

Hello bicycle tour in Seattle
Location 47.606628°N, 122.366547°W

This trip could offer nothing else & keep its spot as one of the most memorable.

Itinerary was based in Seattle, with a few days on San Juan Islands, & day trips to nearby islands.

Friday Harbor

There are many reasons to visit Pike Place Market for fresh salmon, Market Spice, & Snoqualmie Honey. I stopped by early in the morning to get a fresh loaf of bread from Three Girls Bakery before boarding the ferry (lap 1) to Bainbridge Island:

Dream bicycle bakery-to-bakery tour of Puget Sound & San Juan islands
Location 47.609201°N, 122.341027°W

First day was going to be stressful: rain in the forecast, schedule to keep for three ferry crossings, & long distance to bicycle.

General Store in Port Gamble had an infinite variety of Seattle Chocolates. I packed several while resting by the ocean view:

Start bicycle tour right with Seattle Chocolates
Location 47.855663°N, 122.583878°W

Near Port Townsend (lap 2), I bicycled on a scenic ocean trail, stopped by Food Co-op, toured the town, & supplied with bread at Pane d’Amore:

Big rye wheat loaf at Pane d'Amore
Location 48.116928°N, 122.760422°W

In Fort Casey on Whidbey Island (lap 3), I met a tour group from Adventure Cycling Association bicycling in the opposite direction. I actually meet up with this group again a few days later near Friday Harbor.

I continued north on Whidbey Island (lap 4), stopping by amazing views of Deception Pass, to catch the third & final ferry for the day (lap 6).

It was a short distance from ferry landing to hostel (lap 7) to rest after a very long day.

Orcas Island

I bicycled the short distance from hostel to ferry (lap 1). Travel on Washington State Ferries between islands was free.

San Juan island hopping with bicycle in search of bakery on Orcas
Location 48.541069°N, 123.010681°W

Rain was in the forecast daily through the entire trip. But other than a couple of hours on the first day, it did not rain any more. That left a beautiful cloud formation, subtle light, & calming views:

Time travels slower on San Juan islands
Location 48.694622°N, 122.910339°W

First destination on Orcas Island was Brown Bear Bakery for picnic lunch:

Brown Bear Baking by bicycle: warm vegetable quiche in crisp fall air
Location 48.694744°N, 122.906509°W

I made my way to Obstruction Pass State Park for a short hike along the water before the big steady climb to Mount Constitution:

Mount Constitution: highest point on islands
Location 48.676338°N, 122.830963°W

Luckily, I packed a picnic of olive bread & Tillamook habañero jack cheese to reward the effort:

Essential bicycle lunch: olive bread & Tillamook habanero jack cheese
Location 48.677204°N, 122.831512°W

I stopped by the bakery again for another loaf of olive bread before a side trip to Deer Harbor & ferry back to Friday Harbor.

San Juan Island

Sun, ocean, & orcas while I circumnavigated the island. No ferry crossing.

There was no main food stop or bakery for the entire day though. I had to carry supplies from Friday Harbor.

The loop was counter-clockwise stopping at San Juan Islands Sculpture Park:

San Juan Islands Sculpture Park
Location 48.609871°N, 123.147263°W

Visit to Roche Harbor was beautiful to see boats, historic buildings, shops, & flower garden.

San Juan Island National Historic Park is split into two parts. English Camp in the north:

English Camp: gardens, families, parties, & Westcott Bay water views
Location 48.593651°N, 123.137772°W

An American Camp in the south:

American Camp: labor, troops, tents, & trenches
Location 48.46523°N, 123.028358°W

Camps were set up in 1859 as response to a border dispute triggered by the killing of a pig. The camps were occupied for 12 years, until the Treaty of Washington was signed. The Pig War was a bloodless conflict, no shots exchanged, & and no human casualties.

In between the two camps, I stopped at Lime Kiln Point state park & lighthouse to spot orcas:

Lime Kiln Point state park & lighthouse to watch for orcas
Location 48.515614°N, 123.151649°W

I did not spot any orcas there, although did shortly after.

Pelindaba lavender farm was a good stop for tea, chutney, & white chocolate:

Tea, chutney, & white chocolate from Pelindaba lavender farm
Location 48.509106°N, 123.099457°W

Beyond the American Camp was Cattle Point lighthouse. There was much road construction, closure, & paving. I hiked side trails to reach past construction area. The lighthouse itself was in disrepair. But scenery was very fine:

Cattle Point lighthouse & Lopez Island view. Red fox & dear nearby
Location 48.456028°N, 122.973915°W

I had met again with the Adventure Cycling Association touring group & agreed to dine together that evening.

Lopez Island

While I did manage to spend the entire previous day without a bakery stop, I had to make this top priority for today at Holly B’s for fresh Lopez pear hazelnut white chocolate danish:

Fresh Lopez pear hazelnut white chocolate danish at Holly B's bakery
Location 48.523537°N, 122.914276°W

That was in addition to some bread for the road.

Bicycle loop of Lopez island
Location 48.51382°N, 122.913253°W

A short hike (lap 2) into Shark Reef Sanctuary opened up to another view of Cattle Point lighthouse:

Cattle Point lighthouse & San Juan island view from Shark Reef on Lopez Island
Location 48.460606°N, 122.943275°W

Far south on the island, I came to a quiet beach, clear water, & calm moment to bid farewell to the islands:

Quiet moment bidding farewell to San Juan Islands
Location 48.43021°N, 122.877129°W

Last day on the San Juan islands before returning for more bakeries & island tours near Seattle. With additional time, I would have liked to cross the border into Victoria.

On the return trip to the ferry, I stopped at Spencer Spit State Park for a short hike along the beach.

Back on mainland, I stopped briefly for the customary wheel dip in Pacific Ocean at the starting point of Northern Tier route:

Customary dip in Pacific Ocean
Location 48.504862°N, 122.677283°W

The route crosses the United States finishing in Bar Harbor. I had bicycled the New England part of Northern Tier back in 2014, with a wheel dip at the end.

I regularly shop for SeaBear salmon from REI. This was my chance to stop at the flagship store for a view of their entire product line:

Stop to sample the legendary flavor of the Pacific Northwest at SeaBear
Location 48.4973199°N, 122.6093802°W

From there, I proceeded on some trails & busy roads to reach Amtrak station in Mt Vernon for my return trip to Seattle.

Lake Washington

I spent the previous day resting & walking around downtown Seattle, of course with a stop at Three Girls Bakery.

It was time for a tour of neighborhoods around Seattle with visits to some favorites, including:

  • Fremont district
  • University of Washington
  • Mountaineers office & bookstore
  • Columbia Crest & Chateau St Michelle wineries
  • Redmond town center
  • Casa D’s Taqueria
  • Mercer Way bicycle route on Mercer Island

Extended stop was at Bellevue Public Library:

Bicycle loop around Lake Washington
Location 47.620403°N, 122.193863°W


A tour along Alki beach in West Seattle & Kitsap county.

The first part (lap 1) along Alki beach was most scenic. Otherwise, across Puget Sound was windy & mostly on busy roads. Worse, Larry & Krisi’s bakery was closed.

At least the sunset on ferry return trip was beautiful:

Bicycle Alki beach & Kitsap county
Location 47.563267°N, 122.509705°W


Three bakeries in one day.

Started in Bremerton on much better roads than from the previous day toward small town of Poulsbo: small shops, bookstore, & Sluys’ Poulsbo Bakery:

Nordic bread & sweets from Sluys' Poulsbo Bakery on bicycle tour
Location 47.7346°N, 122.646255°W

More quiet roads & water views toward Pane d’Amore bakery:

Pane d'Amore bakery Bainbridge island
Location 47.604107°N, 122.547523°W

Most difficult choices were at Blackbird Bakery: granola, bread, pastries, & pizza:

Blackbird Bakery rich locally made granola
Location 47.625°N, 122.519409°W

Three amazing bakeries. No better way to spend last day in Seattle:

Good night bicycle tour in Seattle
Location 47.60133°N, 122.343582°W


  • Three Girls Bakery
  • Port Gamble General Store
  • Food Co-op
  • Pane d’Amore
  • Wayfarer’s Rest hostel
  • Sunday 13 September 2015 7:56 Seattle to Friday Harbor on San Juan Island


    ➡️distance including ferry: 207.04km ⏩speed 15.2km/h
    🔄duration 13h:36m:02s
    ⬆️ascent 1,989m
    📶temperature 14.8ºC
    ⏬download GPX & KML
  • Brown Bear Baking
  • Mount Constitution
  • Monday 8:22 Orcas Island

    GPX & KML
  • San Juan Islands Sculpture
  • English Camp of San Juan Island National Historic Park
  • American Camp of San Juan Island National Historic Park
  • Lime Kiln Point state park & lighthouse
  • Pelindaba lavender farm
  • Tuesday 9:04 San Juan Island

    GPX & KML
  • Holly B’s Bakery
  • Shark Reef
  • Wednesday 9:50 Lopez Island

    GPX & KML
    Walk around town, rest, & clean Thursday Seattle
  • Fremont district
  • University of Washington
  • Mountaineers office & bookstore
  • Columbia Crest & Chateau St Michelle wineries
  • Redmond town center
  • Bellevue Public Library
  • Casa D’s Taqueria
  • Mercer Way bicycle route on Mercer Island
  • Friday 10:31 Lake Washington

    GPX & KML
  • Alki beach
  • Larry & Kristi’s bakery
  • Saturday 12:07 Bremerton

    GPX & KML
  • Sluys’ Poulsbo Bakery
  • Pane d’Amore bakery
  • Blackbird Bakery
  • Sunday 20 September 2019 07:36 Bainbridge Island

    GPX & KML


    From → Bicycle

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